P091_0573_ WARP THREADS STRESS VARIATION DURING HANDLOOM WEAVING

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Ivelin Rahnev

Published Nov 21, 2019

Abstract

The weaving cycle for making a weft involves three basic actions that begin with the opening of the shed, promotion the weft by the shuttle and beating-up the weft to the end of the fabric through the reed brought by the batten. For industrial weaving machines, the longitudinal displacement of the warp is achieved within the weaving cycle by unwinding the weaving warp and pulling the raw fabric from the work area. At the hand weaving looms, the longitudinal displacement of the warp threads goes beyond the weaving cycle and follows the possible movement of the batten between the heddle frames and the end of the woven fabric. The maximum stroke of the batten is constructively limited between the heddles and the bearers of the take-up roller at the front end point. With each beating-up of the next weft, this front end point of the weaver’s reed reversing motion is shifting back to the heddles. The reason for this is the overlapping of wefts, one after the other, and the longitudinal immobility of the warp and the fabric in the work area. The main result is the shortening of the base length of shed. Its height remains unchanged and therefore, after each beaten weft the tension in the main threads increases. Thus, it changes the conditions of intercrossing and mutual working of the warp and weft threads. From this point of view, hand weaving is not limited by the thread-binding technique but requires additional knowledge and skills on textile materials. Subject of this paper is the variation in the tension of the warp threads during the weaving on hand horizontal looms. Aim of the work is to establish the analytical relationships between the geometric parameters of the handlooms and the variation of mechanical conditions in the hand weaving. Performance tasks include bibliography research, technological observation, measuring of constructional proportions and calculations. Main question in the teaching of weaving technique is looking for the section or the balance between the complex analytical description and the practical skills for the weaving cycle adjustment.


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